Pleasant Valley Plant Farm

I have been so excited with the results of simple greenhouse plans and so today I want to share a few principles of that method.

  So important , is the placement of the house, and the available sun, then the air flow and include the design to accomidate the easiest way for air to flow through you new house, This will make cool down easy, and I like, that a simple lift-up or let-down wall or doors or windows,on each end is the quickest way  to cool on intensely hot days.I also recommend some type of shade consideration as most plants don't appreciate searing intensity of light and  benefit with consistent moisture, food and air circulation, besides the light and heat.  A simple coat of white paint, on the top ridge or the evening sun ridge,will even wear off as the season progresses and you will be having, at the right time tomatoes, cucumbers, melons, peppers, and it was an accessible, and available method, that you will want to share.

  First what space you may have for the house you would like to install.

 Then if you would like to make it a year-round aid or perhaps just for the extending of each season and at that point how much you can actually afford to make this a reality for your growing needs.

Cold frames are very helpful, these are simple areas formed by an encasing of and framing of lumber, usually, although natural rock and other elements of framing the space, even a bale of hay can accomadate the warmth needed to get that earlier planting or, even better that earlier harvest.

  When we decide we want a greenhouse, we can access this by innovative ideas by using old glass doors in a framework, and fiberglass roofing, or if there is a side of a building that has a southern , exposure you may prefer half a  greenhouse, against the established building.

  We also may have open land for establishing a greenhouse, then my recommendation is a( 1 1/2") pipe bent in a form that is appropriate for the size, usually( 12' )by extentions of( 4',) which I prefer( 12' x 24'), this size varies, in( 4' )increments, as the reinforcing cross-arcing piping al(l 1 1/2 ") in diameter seem to support the end stucture, be it( 12'x4' or 12'x24',) works the best for me. 

 The project begins by leveling the grade, deciding if ground cover is necessary. pound slightly larger( 4-6'pipe) into the earth in the predetermined placing of the ribs of the greenhouse, which I prefer at 4' increments, when finished you may couple pipes with couplers accordingly, ask the pipe seller about coupling the pipe, you will learn alot that will serve you well later ,then purchase screws , couplers and wire  then across the angled distance, secure the wire well as cross winds are intense at times. You should be able to secure and have rigidity before you proceed. 

At the bottom of the ribs, add a 2x1" cross-member all along the base, from end to end and this will give you some thing than secures the frame work and will be available to attach the greenhouse film to. When you apply the film use, what in the industry is called a straping tape, not like the one we normally are familiar with, yet the purpose of this tape is to secure the film in such a way that, during the wind and aging of the film, this straping will help keep the integrity of  film on the greenhouse framework.

  In our commercial business we buy greenhouse film and it has a capacity for a very long lasting house, but when that is not available you will find that there are now materials such as fiberglass fabric, or panels, or even an affordable plastic readily available cheap and that's what I'm talking about, because it is all about affordability, and this easily available plastic  can handle one season or maybe more.

  Use what fits and try again, growin seasons we  can extend, love and time make the harvest sweet , thank you all, for loving to eat:-)